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Waterproofing is the repair once you know where the water is entering. These are the methods used on Burlington basements. The photos show the work, not a specific house, and the right one depends on where the water comes in.
Stops water at the outside of the wall.
When water is coming through the foundation, the lasting fix is usually outside. The wall is dug down to the footing, cracks and voids are patched, a waterproof membrane and drainage board go on the wall, and new weeping tile in clear stone carries water away. The trench is backfilled and the ground is sloped away from the house.
Collects water that has already reached the footing.
When the outside of the house can’t be dug — a tight side yard, a deck, a shared wall — an interior system manages water at the wall-floor joint. The floor is opened along the wall, a drainage channel and membrane go in, and water is sent to a sump pump. The slab is poured back. It does not coat the outside of the wall.
Seals an isolated crack in poured concrete.
A single vertical crack, with water tracking down that one line, is often sealed from inside by injecting it. That is the right tool for an isolated crack in poured concrete. It is the wrong tool when water enters along the whole footing, through block or stone, or because the drain has failed.
Pumps out water that reaches a pit.
A sump pump gives groundwater a way out when weeping tile or an interior drain brings water to a pit. Homes that lose power in storms need a battery backup, or the pit fills while the pump is off. A pump does not fix a crack or a slope that dumps rain against the wall. It only moves water that reaches the pit.
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